In my most recent 4c Hair Wash Day Demo/Review video, I lightly touched on the topic of sulfates and expressed my indifference about them. However, I know a lot of my viewers are avid ingredient readers and are adamant about not using products with certain ingredients so I always mention ingredients in products I use that they would want to know about. As the hair product market has evolved over the years, admitting to using products with OG ingredients have become as gut wrenching as the mentioning of Voldemort’s name. What? Parabens, paraffinum liquidium, propylene glycol! Shhh! We-Do-Not-Speak-Their-Names!
One ingredient that has gotten a bad rap and you constantly hear about in hair product reviews are sulfates. At this point new naturals are flooded with so many products that they are probably wondering, “What are these sulfates you speak of?”
What are sulfates?
Sulfates are commonly found in cleansing products such as soaps. They are added to these products because of the amount of suds they produce. Sodium laurly sulfate (SLS) is the most common sulfate you will find in a shampoo but their are others such as ammonium laurly sulfate and Sulfates are known to reduce the surface tension of water which helps the shampoo it is added to to loosen up dirt, grease, and other product buildup.
Why do naturals tend to dislike them?
When it comes to natural hair, the more textured your hair is the more difficult it is for the natural sebums (oils) your scalp produces to make it’s way to end of your strands. Leaving our hair drier towards the ends. So shampoos containing sulfates have become a “no-no” in the current realm of products for natural hair because it does too good of a job and leaves your tresses squeaky clean and dry (so they say). Cleansers containing sulfates also tend to be irritating to those with sensitive scalps and skin.
Q: So I used a shampoo with sulfates in it, do I get my naturalista card revoked?
A: Nope!
Although the current natural hair product marketing trend will lead you to believe that it’s wrong to use sulfate containing shampoos it’s absolutely not. It really has to do with your personal preference and sensitivities to them. While shampoos with sulfates are not great for frequent use, they do come in very handy when we need to clarify our scalps of excess sweat, dirt, and product buildup that typically occurs after wearing protective styles for extensive (4 weeks or more).
Q: So what do I do after using a shampoo with sulfates?
A: Continue with the rest of your wash day regimen.
Whether your shampoo contains sulfates or not, you will still need to restore moisture to your hair. Whether you use a conditioner, a deep conditioner, or both, simply shampooing your hair is never the only step you take in your wash day process. Apply your favorite conditioner/deep conditioner, let it sit, and rinse as directed. Then follow that up with your favorite moisturizing method (LOC, LCO, LO, I’M IN LOVE WITH THE COCO, etc.)
What may be pushed in the market as the best thing since sliced bread may suddenly mean death to your hair in the matter of months. It’s very important that you take all the ads, the marketing , the information, and make your own decision on what works best for your own hair. If something doesn’t work don’t use it. If it does, it’s your hair do what you want!